Day 8 - Wendover to Ivinghoe Beacon

What a difference a day makes. After yesterday's wind and rain today was a total change with sunshine for the final leg of the walk.

Leaving Wendover, the path was flat at first but then started steadily climbing. We got slightly delayed at a farm as some sheep were being moved into a field across the path. I couldn't help smiling as one sheep had other ideas about where it wanted to go. Then it was a case of carrying on climbing up through the woods to the top of the ridge. The path was level(ish!) for a while but then it inevitably started descending. Then it did a strange thing .. The signs pointed down into a large ditch running up the hillside and then up the centre of the ditch. We took the easier option of the path running along the top of the ditch.

Some level walking across fields and through a small village and then we were entering Tring Park. This was where we had arranged to meet my sister, her husband and my brother. My sister brought along some lunch for us and we had a nice break looking out over the park and Tring beyond. Then we set off again and the three of them walked with us until we reached the edge of the park. They had already said they would meet us at the end of the Ridgeway so we agreed a rough time when we thought we would arrive. 

Some downhill walking and level paths brought us to Tring Station and then we inevitably started to climb again, this time in an area called Aldbury Nowers. The path steadily climbed up and I recognised the paths where I had run last October when taking part in the Tring Ridgeway 10ml run. The path eventually levelled out for a while but then as you may guess, we were soon climbing up again. 

At the top of the path we were walking on a grassy ridge. We were now getting glimpses of our final destination but before we would reach it the path had two stings in its tail which we had to negotiate. The first was after we descended off the grassy  ridge and crossed a minor road. We were by now heading for Inchcombe Hole, a steep-sided valley which the path winds around the end of. At the top we looked back to see the line of hills we had negotiated during today's walk.

We made our way over the top of the hill above Inchcombe Hole and met up with my sister and brother-in-law. Then it was time for the final section. A short steep descent brought us to a minor road where my sister had seen a sign saying "Overton Hill  87 miles". She took some photos then we crossed over and started the very steep climb up onto Ivinghoe Beacon itself. My BIL walked ahead and took some more photos of us climbing up the last few yards (at a very slow speed it has to be said!). We were both getting very tired by now and our legs and feet were sore.

And then - we were there. We came over the final small ridge and found the trig point marking the end of the path. Some more photos to record the event and time to celebrate finishing. Unfortunately the car park at Ivinghoe is some way from the finish so we hadn't quite done our walking for the day. We went back to my sister's afterwards and she produced a bottle of bubbly to celebrate our achievement (and took a few more photos!). My mum and brother had driven up to meet us and congratulate us and afterwards my BIL drive us to the hotel in Aylesbury where we are staying tonight.

Back home tomorrow and I will try and write down some final thoughts. But one final fact before I sign off. On a clear day, from the top of Ivinghoe Beacon, if you look in the right direction, you can STILL see Didcot b****y power station!!! :-)

Day 7 - Kingston Blount to Wendover

The road from the Ridgeway to Kingston Blount is straight, fast and dangerous to walk on as we discovered last night on our way to our b&b for the night. So a thank you to the landlady of the Cherry Tree for driving me back to the Ridgeway this morning. Margaret wasn't with me today - the 16 miles yesterday were too much for her and she was completely worn out. We knew today's walk would be a tough one so she wisely decided to save her energy for the last leg tomorrow.

In the event the walk today was even tougher than usual because of the weather. Strong winds, horizontal rain, steep climbs, slippery descents. I found my hands becoming numb with the cold wind and rain.

I would love to give you a full description of the walk but to be honest I spent most of today with the hood of my waterproof up and my head down so a lot of what I saw was the few yards of the path in front of me. It was just a case of keeping going and getting to the end. 

I could almost say today's blog is brought to you in association with Romney's Kendal Mint Cake because this afternoon when I was beginning to flag it kept me going. There were some things to mention such as the old quarries near Chinnor which have been flooded and where the water has turned a turquoise blue because of the chalk. Or walking across the drive leading to Chequers and noticing the security cameras everywhere. But the wind and rain meant sightseeing was not a priority.

Suffice to say I was pleased when Wendover finally came into view. After 12 windy, wet miles it was just what I needed. When I got to the hotel room I found that everything was soaked through and my hands were numb. But a cup of tea  followed by a hot shower revived me.

I have spoken to my sister tonight and she and my brother-in-law will be meeting us tomorrow to walk some of the way with us. And apparently the weather tomorrow will be sunshine. Let's hope so!!

Day 6 - Wallingford to Kingston Blount

Today's walk was even longer than I thought it would be. And it was a walk whose character changed in various ways.

We took a different footpath from Wallingford back to where we had left the Ridgeway yesterday. As we started the Ridgeway itself it wound its way through trees and crossed over a busy A-road. We were then walking on Grim's Ditch which is a bit of a misnomer as it is a raised bank for a lot of the way. The path mostly followed the top of the bank but sometimes dropped to one side or the other. And all the time we were following Grim's Ditch we were gaining height as the path climbed steadily.

After 3 miles or so we reached Nuffield. Passing through the village we were directed towards the Hunterscombe Golf Course clubhouse and at this point the path traverses the golf course. We had to follow a succession of white-topped posts which directed us across fairways (watching to make sure no golfers were in the vicinity) and naturally we avoided any bunkers. After crossing the golf course, the path made its way between two houses and down their gravel drive!

Crossing another main road the path dropped down through a wood. At the end of the wood and at the other side of a field you saw a white post in the distance which you had to aim for. The path was very distinct so there was no problem finding our way. This was followed by a crossing of an even larger field. Again, the path was distinct so there was no question where to go. Just as we got to the wood at the far end of the field a hailstorm started. We decided this was an opportune time to have lunch.

The field had been in a large valley and these downhill sections followed by uphill climbs (and vice-versa) were to be a feature of the next stage of the walk. The path crossed over a number of wooded ridges and valleys and the weather was changeable as well .. Bright sunshine and blue skies for a while, followed by rain and more hailstorms. At one point I looked out over the vale of Oxfordshire stretching into the distance and saw an old friend. There yet again were the cooling towers of Didcot power station. I am beginning to think that if it's a clear day when we reach Ivinghoe Beacon I will probably still just be able to make out the towers from there.

The steep climbs followed by steep descents eventually finished and we were back walking on byways through fields. By now we were walking at the foot of the Chilterns past various steep hills ( thank goodness we weren't going over them!). Long before we reached it we heard the M40 and we eventually passed underneath that and then shortly afterwards crossed over the old A40. Then it was a matter of keeping going until we reached the road into Kingston Blount. And all the time, the weather was changing from sunshine to rain or hail and back again.

I said at the beginning the walk was longer than anticipated. When I checked the Garmin this evening it showed we had walked a total of 16 miles today. Longer than I had expected and far hillier than I thought it would be.

Day 5 - Streatley to Wallingford

Starting in Streatley today and walking to Wallingford brought back some memories. 

Soon after starting out we passed Pierrepoint Cafe. This was where Alan and I finished a bike ride from Chiseldon quite a few years ago. It had been a damp, drizzly day and we had got a bit muddy. We were desperate for a cup of tea but didn't want to make a mess so went inside and waited on the doormat. I seem to recall it was a Sunday and everyone else in the cafe was dressed up and we attracted quite a lot of attention. Anyway, we got our take-away teas in double-quick time and I imagine they were relieved we hadn't wandered in all over their nice clean floor!

Another memory was of the last time I attempted the Ridgeway. I had to give up at Streatley the time before due to an enormous blister on the sole of my left foot. I remembered how disappointed I was then and how pleased I was today to be able to carry on. 

And I remembered walking the Thames Path last year. It was almost a year to the day (24 May 2012) when we were walking on the west bank of the Thames between Goring and Wallingford. Now we were walking on the east bank following the Ridgeway as the two paths run parallel to each other for around 5 miles.

The character of the Ridgeway has changed. We have left behind the wide open countryside we encountered earlier. Today we passed through the suburbs of Goring and some small villages (South Stoke and North Stoke). But we are now in a much more wooded environment and with the riverside walking, have been passing by reed beds as well.

In South Stoke we stopped at the Pike and Perch for a break. We had to wait for them to open and then the landlord was in a meeting with the brewery area manager. His wife served us but as the bar wasn't her 'end' (she seems to run the restaurant 'end') she didn't know the price of the drinks or even where to switch on the lights. The landlord's meeting ended by the time we had finished our drinks and I was able to pay so we could continue on our way.

In North Stoke the path goes through the churchyard. We stopped off to look inside as they have medieval (14th C.) wall paintings of biblical scenes such as the Last Supper. They are obviously very faded but what is interesting is that the characters in the paintings are English and dressed in the manner and costume of the day.  

The Ridgeway Path turns east about a mile from Wallingford which is where we are staying tonight. So we left it at that point and kept heading north until we reached the outskirts of town. The final memory of the day was connected to the George Hotel where we are staying. As we entered the courtyard we remembered that this was where we stopped at the end of the day's walk last year. It had been unbearably hot then and long, cold drinks were the order of the day.

Tomorrow we have one of the longest stretches of walking (13mls) and the weather forecast isn't looking very favourable with rain promised. We are just hoping they have either got it wrong or are exaggerating how much rain is promised to fall just to cover themselves! 

NB: Just over 8 miles walking today which brought up the overall mileage to 52.5 miles. We may be past the halfway point (35 miles to go) but we have some tough walking ahead of us.

Day 4 - East Ilsley to Streatley

We've arrived at Streatley and that means we have reached the halfway point both metaphorically and physically. Tomorrow morning we cross the River Thames and leave behind the North Wessex Downs to say welcome to the Chilterns. For the first few miles we will be walking along the east bank of the Thames. Last year when we were walking the Thames Path we walked along the west bank of the river from Streatley heading for Wallingford.  Tomorrow we are heading for Wallingford once more, but this time by a different route.

This morning Ed transported us back to Bury Down where we had finished yesterday and he had picked us up. The first mile or so was on more wide grassy track and if it hadn't been for the A34 might have been peaceful. Once through the tunnel that passes under the A34 we were heading through fields and as we made our way along the path we caught glimpses of East Ilsley where we had stayed the night. Peace had finally returned, broken only by the sounds of birdsong and the sound of horse riders galloping past. Red kites soared overhead at regular intervals. After a flat stretch the path turned left and we began to make our way downhill. While looking for some nearby tumuli I noticed an old friend in the distance .. the cooling towers of Didcot power station. I'm sure eventually it will disappear from view! :-)

At the bottom of the hill we crossed a disused railway - the Didcot, Newbury and Southampton Junction Railway. The cutting is nowadays totally overgrown and I'm sure will eventually totally disappear from view. What goes down must inevitably go up and we could see track rising up ahead. As usual we  made our way steadily uphill and took advantage of a grassy bank for a break. 

At this point in the path there are a large number of tracks that criss-cross each other but with good signs all along the way (and the guide book as backup) it is difficult to go wrong. Further on along the path the ground drops away dramatically on the right .. this is Streatley Warren. The path begins to go downhill at this point and it continued like this for the next mile or two. 

Earlier on we had passed, and then been passed by, another walker carrying the familiar looking national trail guide that I am using. This seems to be par for the course on these long distance paths. You see people early in the day and spend the rest of the days walk passing and re-passing each other.

The downhill stretch eventually flattened out as we reached the outskirts of Streatley. The track joins a road which passes the local golf club .. the road becomes lined with more and more houses and joins a more major road .. eventually this road joins the main road heading for Reading. We knew we had arrived properly when we began walking down the road on a (gasp) pavement and were pleased to see the Bull at Streatley appear in view. 

Stats time! The total mileage is now 44.4mls. We have completed half the path but I can see from the guide that after the flat path along the Thames, there is a fairly flat stretch to Nuffield. Unfortunately, after we reach that point I can see that over the next few days, the hills ahead seem bigger and steeper than anything we have walked on so far. 

Day 3 - Woolstone (Uffington) to East Ilsley

There's no two ways about it - today's stretch was a bit of a slog. We completed another 12.5mls and for some stretches we were walking on hard tracks. The weather was cloudy, misty and very breezy .. We couldn't help thinking if it had been warm and sunny these tracks would have been horrible to walk on. However, other parts of the walk were on wide grassy stretches which made up for it.

The pub landlord gave us a lift up from Woolstone and the first hill past Uffington Castle wasn't as bad as we had expected. I obviously need to improve my map reading. I was expecting undulating countryside but we had a couple more big ups and downs before the flatter sections of the walk.

We passed by another hill fort at Segsbury and later on walked past the Devils Punchbowl which looked more spectacular from further on along the path when we lookd back. We had been seeing red kites soaring overhead all day .. later on we were lucky enough to see some lapwings too. 

This was the first weekday walking and the path seemed a bit quieter .. just other walkers and the occasional cyclist. We were both tiring by the end and the last couple of miles were hard work .. it was just a case of keeping going. We eventually reached Bury Down where Ed met us and transported us down to East Ilsley where we are staying tonight. The Crown and Horns is a real find .. A lovely spacious room with a 'wet room' and very tasty food. 

I am sat here yawning and my eyes are beginning to close so it's obviously time to bring this post to a close. Just time to give you the stats .. 12.5mls done today and the total mileage stands at 35.8mls. My Garmin also tells me we have walked for a total of 14 hours at an average speed of 2.5mph. It also tells me we have stopped for breaks and lunches for 4.5hrs so the overall average speed is just under 2mph. Don't you just love gadgets!!! :-)

Day 2 - Ogbourne St George to Woolstone (Uffington)

One thing I forget to mention yesterday was the glorious walking down Smeathe's Ridge from Barbury Castle to Ogbourne St George. Halfway down there was a seat with a plaque in memory of Bert Toomer, chairman of Wiltshire Ramblers from 1976-1988. From the seat you could look ahead to the ridge between Ogbourne St George and Liddington. Today, once we had climbed up from Ogbourne onto the ridge we found another seat, this one giving a view back to Smeathes Ridge. Sadly not to remember another rambler but in memory of a 33yr old man who loved the countryside. 

At the start of the ridge we had seen lots of wild flowers .. Bluebells, celandine, violets, speedwell and others we did not know the names of. Even the fields of yellow oilseed rape look nice this time of year and the smell isn't yet overpowering. The birds we singing all around us, buzzards were soaring overhead and the path was quiet. We saw other walkers, some horse riders and later on a group of motorbikers. But they we soon lost in the distance and peace and quiet returned. 

There is a nasty stretch of the path that follows the road from Liddington Castle to Foxhill. We had to walk on the narrow verges and we we glad to get over the M4, past Foxhill and back up onto the hills. I would love to say it was peaceful but for a while we had the noise of a scrambling meet to contend with. However, we eventually got far enough away for the noise to subside.

The ridge we were walking along was now passing villages such as Bishopstone and Ashbury. Lunch was taken sat on a grassy bank looking out over the vale below. A lady passed us .. She said she would be back .. A little later she did wander past in the opposite direction. She said we would see her once more. Sure enough, when we started walking again our paths crossed for the third time. I checked .. She was training for the White Horse walk in July between Marlborough and Devizes. 

We passed by Waylands Smithy long barrow and were met by my friend Alan. He was going to meet us at Uffington but had decided to drive a little nearer to see if he could meet us earlier than planned. He transported our rucksacks so we could do the last mile more comfortably. He walked with us for a bit then went back to the car and we met him and Diana near Uffington Castle and from there he drove us down into Woolstone where we were staying for the night. Alan and Diana stayed on and we had a lovely meal with them.

For the stattos amongst you today's stretch of the walk was 12 miles bringing the total walked to 23 miles.

Day 1 - Overton to Ogbourne

First day's walking completed and we are obviously a bit out of practise. We are both suffering from tired feet and legs tonight after completing the first ten miles of the walk. As expected, the Ridgeway is proving a little tougher than the Thames Path was last year. No really steep hills to contend with but plenty of ups and downs.

The rewards for the walking were the fabulous views we were presented with. Today's walk climbed steadily at first giving us views across to Cherill and Avebury. Later on we we able to see Broad Hinton and further afield. By the time we reached Barbury Castle we were able to see across the wide flat valley to the ridge we will be walking along tomorrow towards Liddington Hill (and beyond). 

We were lucky to have dry weather and a mixture of cloudy conditions and sunny intervals. The path was fairly quiet - mostly just other walkers, runners and cyclists. We did meet up with some motorbikes. We stepped to the side so they could pass and they drove straight towards us slowly and then stopped. The lead motorcyclist switched off his engine and asked why we were giving him such an angry look. "Because you drove straight at us of course!" we replied. At which point he claimed some of his party were struggling with the conditions and needed to keep to the flat path ie. the part we were walking on. He then decided to lecture us about how the Ridgeway had been a path for thousands of years and used by drivers .. If we didn't like them sharing the Ridgeway perhaps we should go and walk along the M25. I couldn't help thinking what an arsehole he was! In the event we just turned our backs on him and walked away.

On the plus side, we enjoyed listening to the skylarks and watching the swallows darting to and fro. And no stiles to contend with either. Plenty of sheep in fields all around us and on occasions, racehorses and gallops on either side. And just the one field of cows - who to be honest, we're more interested in the nearby water trough and lush grass around it.

Tomorrow we have a long 13mile stretch to cover from Ogbourne St George to Woolstone. I know after a steady climb up onto the ridge to Liddington Hill it will be flat .. It's the ups and downs after that before we get near the Uffington White Horse that I am not looking forward to quite as much.

What's in store?

It's the question I keep asking myself. Here I am, the day before setting out to walk the Ridgeway Path with my partner Margaret, wondering what's in store over the next 8 days?

If all goes to plan, my friend Joan will be coming over to pick us up at 10am tomorrow morning. She has kindly agreed to drive us to the start of the Ridgeway at Overton Hill (3 miles west of Marlborough). That should take us about 45 minutes so by 11am we should have our rucksacks on and be on our way. We are hoping to raise money for a charity called Arts Together by doing the walk and Karolyne who runs the charity has said she will be there to wave us off.

The path is 87 miles long and we have planned for it to take us eight days. The b&b's are all booked so it will just be a case of walking (plodding?) along each day to our next destination. The first day is a 'taster' as we only have 9 miles to cover to Ogbourne St George. Then things get a bit more 'interesting' .. we have two 13 mile days (to Woolstone and East Ilsley) before a shorter day of 7 miles to Streatley. The second half of the walk was easier to plan for overnight stops so we have three 11 mile days (Wallingford, Chinnor, Wendover) before the final 12 mile walk to Ivinghoe Beacon. Some of my family have promised to meet us on the last day - the path passes close to Tring where they all live and my sister and brother-in-law plan to meet up with us in Tring Park. Then my brother-in-law plans to join us for the last few miles walking to the end of the path. Which is where my sister will be waiting to meet us and to transport us to our hotel. Where, after eight days walking, we will no doubt be indulging in some heavy-duty rest and relaxation.

The daily walking will be just like the Thames Path last year with two main differences. Last year was basically flat - we walked from the Thames Barrier to the source but the incline was so slight it wasn't noticeable. This time we have proper hills to contend with. And the Thames Path was largely peaceful for long stretches - parts of the western half of the Ridgeway can be used by motorbikes and 4x4's as well as walkers, cyclists and horse riders. So it has the potential to be noisier and busier. I just hope that after the weekend, things will quieten down a bit.

The biggest unknown is of course the weather. But come rain or shine, we will be walking the path so we've tried to get the correct gear to make things as comfortable as possible.

I will be trying to keep this blog updated as we walk (wi-fi access permitting) so pop back to check on our progress and I'll try not to whinge too much about my tired legs, sore feet, blisters, the weather etc. etc. .....