Sat 2nd June - Ewen to the Source

The shortest leg of the walk but by far the most enjoyable! Partly because we finally reached our goal after countless hours planning and three long weeks of walking, but mostly because friends joined us to walk the last few miles.

Caroline and Gwyn met us at the Wild Duck in Ewen and Caroline walked with us from there. After a short while we met a couple just starting out going the other way. They had not been to the source itself because the lady didn't like going into fields of cows! I noticed she was wearing a pair of pink trainers. I didn't have the heart to tell her about the many more fields of cows she was going to come across. Or the fact her trainers were going to disappear into the thick mud around Ewen.

We had arranged to meet Alan along the way and as planned, he had already parked near to where the Thames Path crosses over the Cirencester-Tetbury road. He walked to meet us in the field between the road and the Lyd Well (the Lyd Well is where water is said to flow all year round .. the source itself is often dry except in Winter). At the point where we met Alan the riverbed was already dry - we were able to walk in the riverbed instead of alongside it. So the predictions we had heard of flooded paths seemed to have been misplaced. After crossing the road it was a case of walking through several more fields (and one last herd of cows) before we arrived at the source itself.

So .. having finally arrived there were quite a few "Woo-hoo's" and even more photos before we set off for the Thames Head Inn and some celebration drinks. There was one funny moment on the way. A young couple had been at the source at the same time as us and had followed us up to and over the railway line. They looked puzzled and asked why there were no Thames Path signs. I explained they needed to go back to the field where the source had been and head in another direction. The guy thanked me and said he had followed me as I seemed to know where I was going! I did know exactly where I was going .. to the pub!! :) Alan had gone back to the car to get Diana and made his way to the Thames Head when we arrived on foot. Sue's husband Bill arrived soon after with a little surprise - he had Tamzin hiding in the back of the car! And a little while later Margaret's friend Karolyne also turned up with a 'recovery pack'.

A few final photos outside and then we went our separate ways and headed home (in our case, thanks to Alan & Diana who gave us a lift).

Fri 1st June - Cricklade to Ewen

We walked 10.5 miles today though the book claimed it was only going to be 8 - maybe the path/route has changed in the meantime? In retrospect, apart from the occasional fallen tree most day's walking has been relatively easy. But today, almost as soon as we had left the outskirts of Cricklade, we had some boggy ground to negotiate and a flooded path to cross - then a very over-friendly horse to deal with who followed us for 50 metres or more no more than six inches away. The paths through the Cotswold Water Park were flat and easy to use - a far cry from the overgrown ones of a couple of days ago. We stopped in Ashton Keynes for drinks and the White Hart passed the elderflower test - then had lunch on a bench by the memorial. The remainder of the walk became harder going as some parts began to become overgrown. And as we approached Ewen itself, the ground underfoot changed. It became very boggy in places, then we found ourselves having to negotiate a flooded path - only a few inches of water but enough to make you pick your way more carefully. However, there was a way through via the woods alongside so we didn't have to turn back. The path cleared for a short while but we were then faced with huge puddles of water and thick mud barring our way. We got past by walking along the side hanging onto the fence - the man living nearby told us we were lucky .. last week it had been under a foot of water.

The river has now narrowed to as little as 10 feet across but still seems to be 3-4 feet deep. We are unsure what tomorrow holds - we don't know if the path will be muddy or flooded like people have been telling us along the way. However, even if we have to paddle the last part we're determined to get there. And it will be so nice to finish and get home so we don't have to live out of a rucksack anymore! :)

Thu 31st May - Lechlade to Cricklade

Another day, another 9 miles under our belts and the total mileage now stands at 173 miles. For the first time in days we had grey clouds and a stiff breeze this morning. It was quite novel feeling cold and by the end of the walk I even had to put my fleece on!

We have just over 15 miles to go now but today's walk started with a bus ride. The path follows the river out of Lechlade but because of problems with access it has been diverted and uses the A361 for a mile. Its a fast road with narrow verges so signs tell you (if you hadn't already guessed yourself) that the sensible option is to get a bus or taxi to Upper Inglesham where the path heads back towards the river.

The river did not meander as much as yesterday and once were past the initial stages where some small diversions took us away, we stayed close to the riverbank. We had to negotiate yet another field of cows - it was only when we were halfway across we noticed a bull amongst them! Once again the pub we had picked for our rest stop was closed so we had lunch on a lonely stretch of riverbank near Water Eaton. This was one of the most remote stretches we had seen and we hardly saw anyone all day. As before with remote stretches, the ground underfoot was rough and the path was very overgrown in places.

The river has narrowed considerably and in places, it was only 10 metres wide - we have left behind the pleasure boats and narrow boats and even the amount of wildlife has decreased. By the time we reached Cricklade, the river was down to as little as 5 metres wide and even less in some places.

We were speaking after today's walk about our expectations before the walk. I said I had expected to finish but wasn't sure as there was always the chance I might injure myself .. Margaret on the other hand, said she was convinced she would not finish. We both agreed we had no idea beforehand what to expect and just wanted to experience the river. Sue said she had been sure she would finish - apart from anything else, she wanted to prove her doctor's prediction wrong that she wouldn't last a week.

Wed 30th May - Tadpole Bridge to Lechlade

Today my legs felt better - I've no idea why as we had to walk further than yesterday when they were feeling sore - so I'm not complaining .. just grateful! The walking today was much easier - much flatter ground to cross and more clearly defined paths to follow.

The Trout Inn did themselves no favours today. When someone did turn up yesterday they were very apologetic. First we were offered free drinks but I said we just wanted to get to our room. Then they offered us 2 glasses of champagne with our dinner - after we had already got ourselves a drink. I suggested something off the bill would be more useful, meaning a refund of the room rate for the inconvenience of sitting in the garden for two hours. When I went to pay the bill this morning I queried the total - I was told they had knocked off the price of our drinks from last night! Big deal! We'll be writing to them when we are back home pointing out how cheaper, better value establishments we have stayed in along the way have showed us a lot more care in how they look after their customers. Let's just say the words in the Trout Inn's guest booklet describing how they will look after you during your stay, bear little relation to what actually happens.

During today's walk it was noticeable that the river is continuing to narrow. And as we approached Lechlade it meandered much more than before. We were lucky with the weather again - it had been sunny and hot again but it rained while we had our lunch in Kelmscott. We put on our waterproofs before setting off - this was of course the cue for the sun to come out once more. Later in the afternoon we passed St John's Lock where the statue of Old Father Thames resides. The statue used to be at the source but was moved to St Johns some years ago. The final mile or two found us walking back on ourselves at times as the meanders became more and more pronounced.

Now we are into home territory we have mixed feelings. We only have 25 miles walking left and what seemed a big challenge at the start now becomes more and more possible. But after almost three weeks we have had enough walking and it will be so nice to be at home and rest. There are just two more long walks left (to Cricklade, then Ewen) and then its the short walk to the source itself. However, we met some ladies today who told us it was still flooded at the source. So now we wonder whether we may be paddling the last few hundred yards.

Tue 29th May - Bablock Hythe to Tadpole Bridge

This walking is becoming seriously hard work. The cumulative effect of so many day's constant walking is taking it's toll on me. Even before our lunch stop today my quads were aching. By the time we reached Tadpole Bridge they were very sore and it was an effort to climb the steps up from the path to the road to cross the bridge to the pub.

The ground we walked on today was hard work - in places it was fairly flat but for long stretches it was very uneven. As we have reached these more remote parts of the path we have found they are not as well used. As well as being uneven, the path was overgrown in places and occasionally, there was no obvious path to follow. Also, like yesterday, we had to divert across a number of fields from time to time. But most of today's walking was along the riverbank so navigation was not an issue most of the time.

We had a couple of first's today - the first stile we have had to negotiate in 142 miles of walking - and we saw our first deer (it was spooked when we walked past a hedge and bounded off across a field). We have seen plenty of gees on our travel - today we saw what we christened meer-geese. Your first sight of them is of a pair of eyes and a beak peering over the long grass. They follow you as you walk along and as you come closer, they move off silently towards the river. It became more obvious why as we got closer - they had a large number of goslings they were protecting.

The Trout Inn at Tadpole Bridge are closed between 3pm and 6pm and were supposed to have left me a key. But there was no sign of it when we got there just after 4pm. We had to wait in the garden until 5:40pm before a very apologetic lady arrived brandishing our room key.

Mon 28th May - Oxford to Bablock Hythe

The hotel last night was very comfortable - so nice to have a little luxury on the way. A taxi ride back into Oxford and having met Sue at Osney Bridge we set off with the sun shining yet again. Within minutes we were walking through meadows with cows grazing and coming to the river to drink - hard to believe you are so close to the city centre. We passed Godstow Abbey .. the Trout Inn (venue for last night's dinner with Alan & Diana) was closed so we pressed on. Under the A34 (with it's constant traffic noise) and soon after we reached King's Lock which is the most northerly point of the river. Some more meadow walking after that and then for a change, some light rain. Unfortunately, it didn't last long and the sun soon came out again. :( The path skirts along the edge of Great Wytham Wood for a while then after a short diversion along the road you are back to riverside walking. Well, until you get to Pinkhill Lock that is. Because there is no ferry at Bablock Hythe, the path does a long diversion away from the river at this point. You cross a large number of fields using paths, bridleways and sometimes making your own path, with only occasional glimpses of the river or it's tributaries. Navigation was challenging at times on this part but I must have managed to translate the guide book and maps properly because eventually we came to the road leading to Bablock Hythe and back to the river.

Almost there ..

We reached Ewen this afternoon - tomorrow we will be walking the final few miles to the Source. It will be great to finally reach our goal. But to be honest, I am feeling the cumulative effects of this last three weeks of constant walking and am looking forward to getting back to our home comforts and to having a few days rest. I've not been able to post any blogs for the last few days as wifi coverage has not been available where we have been staying. When we have had wifi, I have been so worn out I've not had the energy to post anything. I haven't had time this evening either but wanted to post a quick update of where we were. I've been jotting down some thoughts in a notebook in the meantime so once we are home I will attempt to update this blog with details of this last week's walking.

Latest

Hello readers. Sorry for lack of blogs - combination of lack of wifi and lack of energy.

Sun 27th May - Abingdon to Oxford

No time for a 'proper' blog tonight - suffice to say, day 15 of our trip completed, we have reached Oxford and the mileage total now stands at 131 miles. Another hot day today - we are getting desperate for the temperatures to cool off as walking in 25 degrees day after day is making us very tired (and in my case likely to be irritable!). Met up with Alan & Diana this afternoon when we reached Osney Bridge in Oxford. They brought along some fresh changes of clothes for us and transported us to our hotel for this evening. We will get a taxi back to Oxford Station in the morning and walk to Osney Bridge to continue on our journey. Next stop Bablock Hythe and the Ferrymans Inn. I just hope there is no repeat of the double booking which happened at Abingdon because as far as I know, there IS no alternative accommodation tomorrow evening.

Postscript:

The route as the path leaves Abingdon is slightly confusing - at one point you turn back the way you have just come and feel you are walking in circles. Not far along the path we were met with a fallen tree which meant removing rucksacks and scrambloing over and under branches. We had quiet meadow walking and fields of cows. Then a noise like a chainsaw started - we walked on to find it was motorbikes and quad bikes racing on a field across the river. There was little in the way of refreshment stops today - lunch was taken under  shady tree on the riverbank then we got cold drinks at Sanford Lock  (unbelievebaly busy due to it being a hot Sunday). The path became noticeably busier as we approached Oxford - lots of walkers and cyclists. As mentioned above, my friends Alan & Diana met us and transported us to our hotel. We had a meal with them at the Trout Inn in Godstow later that evening.

Sat 26th May - Dorchester to Abingdon

Another day's walking over and that appears to be two weeks of walking completed. I don't think any of us we're quite sure if we were going to get this far. But we have, so we're feeling pretty pleased with ourselves tonight. I mentioned while walking in London when The Shard seemed to be our constant companion. Today we had Didcot power station in view for most of the day .. not quite the same thing :) Because of the layout of the Thames Path and Dorchester itself, we had walked two miles before we were actually moving away from the town. The first few miles were across meadows and given the fact we are gradually getting into more rural areas today was a first - a couple of fields of cows to walk through (and to have to watch where you were stepping!). We managed to negotiate both successfully. We had planned to stop off at the Barley Mow in Clifton Hampden but found it was shut when we arrived. However, the local post office and convenience store was a good alternative. More meadow walking followed and with a breeze today it was much more comfortable than yesterday. We stopped off at Culham Lock for lunch - somehow Sue managed to find the one shady bench to sit on. After that it was an easy walk into Abingdon where we got some cold drinks at the local Costa as we attempted to cool off. When Margaret and I arrived at our b&b (a local bistro) it had a sign up saying it was closed tonight. We phoned the owner who was on the premises and she explained there had been a computer c**k up and we were double booked. However, she had arranged alternative accommodation for us at a nearby pub. So I got my money back plus a little extra for the inconvenience. And to be honest I think we've done okay as the accommodation is superior to what I was expecting anyway. Plus, we found an Italian restaurant nearby where we have just had a fabulous meal. It would be a perfect evening if it wasn't for the fact there is a group playing at the pub tonight :( However, we do have our earplugs with us ;)

Fri 25th May - Wallingford to Dorchester

Another horrible hot day! Our friend Sue has been on many pilgrimages and has been telling us everyone has a 'down' day - well, today it was my turn! Although there was a bit more of a breeze today, it didn't feel like it at times. The couple who had given Sue a bed for the night walked with us on the first part of the walk which was easy riverside walking. With the sun beating down, we stopped for a break at Benson Lock. That was as far as Sue's friends were walking so we waved them goodbye and set off again. We had more walking through cow parsley with the muggy humid atmosphere to contend with. Then we approached Shillingford Bridge. It's a very elegant bridge and although we didn't see it, there is a sign showing it is exactly halfway between Windsor (where we were 7 days ago) and Cricklade (which we will reach in 6 days time). We did notice a plaque on a building near the bridge showing historic flood levels. I took a photo of Margaret stood against this plaque and needless to say the highest level was several feet above her head. Afer Shillingford we had another nasty detour along a main road for several hundred yards before we were able to return to the peace of the riverbank. I mentioned everyone has a bad day and it was my turn today. By this time I was getting very tired in the sunshine. My feet were complaining and I was wondering what I was doing trudging along in this heat. The map holder blew up into my face several times and I snapped at that point. I threw my walking poles to the ground and wrenched the map holder from around my neck and stuffed it into my pocket. We had just reached the point where the River Thames meets the River Thame which was where we left the Thames Path and headed for Dorchester. Not before time in my case as I had had enough by this point. However, we stopped for lunch under a shady tree and I was able to regain my composure. So much for a 'rest' day. The 5 miles we did today felt more like 15. We reached the hotel and once we had checked in I was so worn out I promptly had a 90 minute nap! I hope my body recovers overnight as we have got to the point now where the rest of the walk is in 10 mile stretches (Abingdon, Oxford, Bablock Hythe, Tadpole Bridge, Lechlade, Cricklade, Ewen). It feels like we are on the home straight now but I am just keeping my fingers crossed I can keep going over this last week.

Thu 24th May -Goring to Wallingford

Last night the heat was unbearable. The bedroom window was wide open but because there was no window that opened in the bathroom, there was no through draught. So the room was far too hot and I spent most of the night with the bed covers thrown off - it was only in the early hours the room began to cool off. The landlady of the pub did us a lovely breakfast and a packed lunch and we set off for Wallingford and yet again, the nature of the river changed. I had envisaged an easier flatter route than the day before. I had expected walking along water meadows but for long stretches we were walking through shoulder high cow parsley. The air was muggy and humid through these stretches which made for uncomfortable walking. The sun was beating down again so we had an early 'coffee' stop in Moulsford at the "Beetle & Wedge". Those two words come from the industry that was here a long while ago when a "beetle" or mallet was used to split open logs using a "wedge" before they were floated downstream. Moulsford itself comes from the old name "mules ford" referring to the time when goods carried on mules forded the river here. Anyway, history apart, the Beetle & Wedge passed the elderflower cordial test. At some places we have stopped they look at you dumbfounded when you ask for it - here they made up the drink without batting an eyelid. After the Beetle & Wedge, we were diverted away from the river yet again, this time along a main road. It was a relief to get back to the river and soon after we passed under the Paddington-Oxford railway line again. From the view below you marvelled at the skills of the bricklayers who constructed the bridge - riding in the train on the line above you would be totally oblivious of the work involved. The shoulder-high cow parsley finally finished and we were back to walking along meadows. There was a slight breeze but by this time the sun was getting even hotter. We managed to find a large overhanging tree that afforded some shade while we had lunch. The last stretch to Wallingford was through riverside gardens and past the Oxford University boat house via a swing bridge. Then all too quickly, the path became enclosed and we found ourselves scuttling along alleys around houses until we finally popped out in Thames Street. A short walk into the town centre from here and we sat down for a well-deserved cream tea. I didn't take any photos on this stretch. The sun was getting to me, the tiredness was kicking in and I was just concentrating on keeping going for another day. Tomorrow we have the shortest leg of all - just a 5ml walk to Dorchester which I have described as a 'rest' day much to Margaret and Sue's amusement.

Postscript: I was so tired on this stretch I hardly noticed as we passed the 100 mile mark (ended the day on 106 miles completed). I also managed to walk straight past the b&b meaning some extra walking we could have done without.

Wed 23rd May - Reading to Goring

Today was a hot day .. very hot .. uncomfortably hot. However, the walk goes on and despite it being so hot, we have a schedule to keep to. So instead of doing the sensible thing and staying in the shade with a long cold drink by our side, an 11ml walk from Reading to Goring it was. The walk into Reading the day before had been along a 'green corridor' which is completely different to what you might expect. The route out of Reading was more of the same, at least for the first few miles. But at Purley (which despite being the 'wrong' Purley still made me think of the Monty Python "nudge nudge wink wink" sketch) the Thames Path, railway and road all came together. From peaceful riverside walking the route changed. First a steep footbridge over the railway, then a walk along a busy road, followed by a nasty up and down route through a hilly housing estate. It was a relief to leave to railway and roads behind and make our way back to the river.  The first stopping off point was MapleDurham Lock where the African Queen is berthed. A cold drink here then we carried on towards Pangbourne. At Whitchurch (across the river from Pangbourne) we stopped for more cold drinks. Then found a bench in a peaceful churchyard for lunch. We could have done without the steep climb out of Whitchurch and once the route headed into some nearby woods, the even steeper path. It was described in the guide as a 'stepped path'. We are convinced this is a misprint and should be a steep path. Think of a roller coaster and you're not far off. One consolation was the dry weather. The path is chalk at that point and would have been very difficult in rain. The other consolation was the views of the river far below. The guide book also mentioned a cliff edge .. we saw steep slopes but the were no cliffs to be seen. After slowly descending to river level again it was a straightforward walk into Goring and our bed for the night. It was relief to finish and my legs and feet were sore by the end.  The walk is gradually making me more and more tired. The recent hot spell has meant that it has become an effort just to keep going. But keep going we do to raise money for the charities we are doing this for. One bright spot was after we had settled into our room. I noticed the Garmin was reading 99 miles. Breaking the 100mile barrier tomorrow will feel like a real achievement and as each day passes, the mileage left decreases and finishing this challenge seems more and more of a possibility! :)

Tue 22nd May - Henley to Reading

We are almost halfway through our Thames Path walk and have almost reached half distance. As I was walking along today I started considering the walk so far. I've not had any blisters which has been a real bonus. My boots are tried and tested and have seen me through a number of walking holidays. But even so, I had wondered how I would get on walking in them day after day. My feet and legs have ached after a day's walking (and sometimes after just a couple of hours!) but on the whole they seem to recover overnight ready for the next day. I am developing a 'farmers tan' where the brown skin stops at collar level and where the arms of my walking shirt end. I'm even managing to develop some comedy tan lines where the strap of my walking pole goes across the back of my hand :) So on the whole, I think things are going well. Before we left the Henley b&b the owner was telling us about a local millionaire polo enthusiast who has a narrow-gauge railway in his landscaped grounds. We saw this later on as we made our way through Shiplake. Before that we had walked through meadows after leaving Henley and we had crossed and re-crossed the river at Marsh Lock. We had followed a few diversions away from the river at places where the riverside properties did not like the idea of walkers wandering through their grounds - can't think why! As we made our way through Shiplake I spotted a couple of jays in a tree by the river - I was quite pleased to see them as they are not easy to spot. We had a break by the river before setting off again and making our way to Sonning Lock where we met my friend Alice and had a cold drink and tried to cool off. It was so hot day today that by the time we were covering the last few miles into Reading I was feeling the effects. My feet were becoming sore and I was pleased to be in the shade for parts of the walk. So I was glad when we finally reached Caversham Bridge where we are staying tonight. However, after an ice-cream in the park, a long cold drink at the nearby Toby carvery and a cool shower I was feeling much better.  Tonight for a change we did not have to seek out a local pub or restaurant. Margaret's friend Pauline very kindly came to meet us and took us to her house where we had a delicious meal.  Tomorrow is the middle day of our walk and somewhere between here and Goring we will pass the midway point. I would say it should be all downhill from here on but obviously its actually uphill all the way!

Mon 21st May - Marlow to Henley

Another wonderful day's walking! Marlow was soon left behind and we found ourselves walking along the riverbank with just the birdlife for company. We passed by Bisham Abbey then soon arrived at Temple Mill Island and Temple Lock. There is a graceful 150ft hardwood bridge over the river here then it was on through trees towards Harleyford Manor. A little further along we came to Hurley Lock Island which meant negotiating two high wooden bridges. Not a problem for me but our friend Sue wasn't too happy with them so I was happy to provide some moral (and physical) support. The scenery changed after the bridges from tree covered banks to a huge water meadow. We had seen a floating hair salon a few days earlier - a floating ice cream seller caught our eye and Sue stopped to photograph it. Margaret and I walked on oblivious to what was happening behind us. We didn't know it at the time but Sue had lost her phone. She had called out but we hadn't heard her so she had gone back to look for it. The first we knew of this was when we reached the far end of the meadow and turned round to find Sue had disappeared from sight. I left Margaret and hurried back as fast I could (not easy with a large pack). I feared the worst and wondered if she had hurt her leg or worse. I eventually saw her at the far end of the meadow. When I arrived she explained what had happened. Sue had already mentioned her lost phone to some passing walkers and a cyclist who were helping look for it. I was ringing Sue's phone constantly and the walkers heard it and returned it to Sue. We continued our walk after that unscheduled bit of excitement and had our lunch on the riverbank a bit further on. After crossing through the rest of the meadows we gained height for the first time near Culham Court and had great views of the river below us winding it's way through the fields. Heading down off the ridge we passed through the village of Aston where the lure of a cold drink at the Flowerpot pub was too much! It's a place where chickens run free in the garden - as we left one poor chap was trying to eat his meal with two chickens jumping up onto the table. Obviously very intelligent chickens these ones as they used a pincer movement so that one distracted the guy while the other made a beeline for the food! What was noticeable at this pub was the number of red kites in the sky above - we had seen buzzards up to now but this was the first time red kites had appeared. A local told us they feed them every morning in a nearby paddock. Continuing on our way the river swung round to the south again soon after and then it was a straight mile alongside the regatta course until we reached Henley Bridge and journey's end for another day. Reading is our destination tomorrow and another 10 miles will be under our belt. Strange to think that we have already managed 78 miles and in a few days we will not be far away from the magic 100 mile mark.

Sun 20th May - Maidenhead to Marlow

Last night Ed came to see us with some bags of 'just in case' clothing we had pre-packed before we left. In the event, we didn't need most of it and in fact we sent him back with some additional stuff we didn't feel like carrying around with us any longer. Now it may be our imagination or perhaps we are getting used to this 'walking with large packs' lark, but the rucksacks definitely felt lighter today. Anyway, what a difference a day makes. After yesterday's fun and games and having to back track several miles of the Thames Path I had been feeling a little deflated. Today's walk was much better and the surroundings were much more what you might expect from a riverside walk.  The first few hundred yards of the walk was alongside a road but that soon disappeared into the distance and we were back to a quiet riverside path. We passed Boulter Lock and Boulter Island soon after - the latter was where Richard Dimbleby lived and apparently used to shout at boats passing by too fast. We caught glimpses of Cliveden in the distance (the setting for the Profumo affair in the 60's) but by the time we reached that part of the walk it was hidden by trees. The path headed inland to Cookham where we had our usual morning coffee stop. The path continued through a churchyard where Stanley Spencer is buried and onwards towards the river.  The scenery changed here - from wooded banks to open meadows where the birdlife was very evident .. Buzzards, swifts, swallows, terns, mallard, Canada geese, coots .. and we stopped at a handily placed bench for lunch. Here the ducks were even more curious and on the lookout for a free handout. Unluckily for them they were out of luck so they waddled off to try their luck with some other people sat nearby. It was back to reality soon after as the path passed beneath the Marlow bypass and all too soon we were on the outskirts of town. There was a brief view of Marlow weir, suspension bridge and church before they disappeared behind houses. We followed the aptly-named '7 corner alley' and found ourselves on the road leading to Marlow Bridge. So, the end of walking for another day and I found myself thinking later this evening that normal life is 'on hold' and when walking a long-distance path like this, the day revolves around how far; where do we stop for coffee; where shall we have lunch; are we there yet? The only other thing to think about is recharging phones and rinsing out socks and shirts ready for another day. We're feeling pleased with ourselves at the moment and whether or not the rucksacks are actually any lighter, they don't seem to be such a burden as they did over the first few days. I've not had any problems with blisters myself and Margaret's seem to have stabilised. Sue's knee is giving her some problems but she is pleased to have defied her doctor's prediction that she wouldn't last a week. It feels like we have got a second wind and the only thing we are slightly concerned about is the fact the temperatures are set to rise over the next few days - we hope that doesn't make the walking any more difficult as the daily mileages crank up again this week with 11 miles on Wednesday.

Sat 19th May - Windsor to Maidenhead

The hotel was full last night as there were a lot of people in Windsor for today's royal celebration by the armed forces. Everyone needed to be in place early and we also needed to make sure we got an early start. So it wasn't too much of a surprise that most of us guests were waiting in the lounge just before 8am for the door to the dining room to open. The hotel staff though seemed a little surprised that everyone had arrived for breakfast at the same time but they did a sterling job feeding everyone quickly.  We saw some proud ex-servicemen heading off to the celebration, resplendent in their blazers and with their campaign medals on their chests, as we left the hotel and headed out of Windsor towards the river. Most people (and most cars) were heading  into town in the opposite direction. The first part of today's walk was idyllic as we made our way through wildflower meadows towards Eton Wick. We thought we were in for another glorious day's walking but we were soon to be proved wrong.  Dorney Court is just along the path from Windsor and is a venue for the Olympics. Because of that a 9' high security fences have been erected around the Dorney venue and the Thames Path has been closed for around 3 miles with a diversion along a nearby national cycle route. We should have known better but we took the advice of a local who claimed the fence had not been completed there was a way to bypass the fence and still get along the Thames Path. We managed to find our way back to the original Thames Path by walking through a car park and beside a boathouse. I suppose the complete lack of anyone coming in the opposite direction should have been a bit of a giveaway but for those 3 miles all seemed well. But when we got to the far end at Summerleaze Bridge we were met by another 9' foot fence. There was no way round the fence but Maidenhead was only 2 miles away. A**e! :) So we had to make our way back all the way to where we should have taken the diversion. There were some police patrolling nearby and we had met a local warden who said he thought then path blocked at Summerleaze was wrong. The police said they had received a number of complaints but the path should have been blocked at the Windsor end and they would need to speak to the Dorney people -again! By this time we felt we had done enough miles of the path even if some had been over ground we had already covered. So we decided to call it a day and got a taxi into Maidenhead where we had our slightly delayed lunch in a park by the river. The local geese were keen to help us eat our lunch but they were out of luck!! Hopefully we will have better luck tomorrow and no diversions - if we do, we won't be taking the advice of any locals :)

Fri 18th May - Staines to Windsor

In contrast to yesterday, today's walk was a bit boring - possibly the most boring stretch we've done so far. The constant drone of planes landing at nearby Heathrow didn't help - how people who live round here put up with the constant noise is beyond me. Before we had gone far a local said not to be fooled and that Staines didn't usually look quite this spick and span. The whole area has been tidied up in preparation for a ceremony on Saturday to celebrate it soon becoming Staines-on-Thames. Even before we had left behind the riverfront properties we were crossing under the M25. We approached Runnymede (National Trust) but that meant walking between the river and a busy road. After a stop at the NT tea room we had a short time walking in relative peace before being beside the road again as we approached Datchet. We saw some posh looking cars with police outriders with blue lights flashing. There is a big ceremony tomorrow in Windsor so we assumed they were VIP's of some description making their way into town. After a lunch stop beside the river in Datchet we made our way along the edge of Home Park as we approached Windsor. We were being serenaded by this point. We could hear massed bands and choirs in the distance - obviously busy practising for tomorrow's celebration by the armed forces in celebration of the Queen's diamond jubilee. When we got to Windsor it was even busier than usual. Tomorrow a lot of roads will be shut from 9:30am and I can see us fighting our way through the crowds back to the Thames Path. The hotel gave us a BOGOF offer for a local Italian restaurant which we were able to use this evening despite it being a few days out of date. The restaurant gave us another BOGOF voucher for their sister restaurant in Maidenhead which is where we are off to tomorrow. I was trying to work out the mileage earlier. The Garmin has conked out a couple of times so I don't have the actual mileage any longer. But from the guide book and map it looks like we've covered 56.5 miles since Sunday. Another short-ish 6.5 mile stretch tomorrow so that should mean 63 miles for the week.  Not bad for a trio of oldies! :)

Thu 17th May - Walton-on-Thames to Staines

Unfortunately the Garmin conked out this morning as the batteries were flat. They are re-chargeable but that doesn't help when the charger is back at home :) According to the guide book today's leg from Walton-on-Thames to Staines was 7 miles so that will have to do. Yesterday there was a mix-up at the b&b. We had settled into our room when the proprietor came a-knocking. Seemed someone else should have been in the room he had given us. We were moved into a bigger room at the front of the house for no extra charge :) The owner offered to drive us back to the river this morning. We had asked for a packed lunch but in the rush we had forgotten it. After the first mile we had to get a ferry across to Shepperton. We had just landed on the far bank when the b&b owner appeared waving our packed lunch. The ferryman whizzed over the river to collect it for us! We saw some more of those birds today - having checked the RSPB website we think they may be harriers but we're still not sure. We also saw a pair of grebes doing a mating dance in the river where they mirror each other's movements. A coffee stop at Chertsey and lunch at Penton Hook (where the river does a half mile loop to travel about 400yards. Then it was a short walk into Staines where we are staying tonight. When we checked in we were pleased to hear we had been upgraded to a riverside room. A nice early finish today so we had time to go shopping for (1) batteries! (2) tomorrow's lunch (3) a new cap for yours truly .. I managed to leave my old one behind somewhere along the way. With today leg completed I think that means we've now covered 51 miles - and so far the feet and legs seem to be coping okay.

Wed 16th May - Kingston-on-Thames to Walton-on-Thames

Before I start, a special mention for Travelodge. If you want a c**p hotel which seems to be run by just two staff; which doesn't supply enough towels and pillows; where you only get a hairdryer if someone else hasn't already nabbed it; where the shower is so small if you could persuade a cat in there with you, you would be unable to swing it; where the cafe has a menu where half the choices are unavailable and is run by a woman on the verge of a nervous breakdown who can't cope with more than 3 customers at a time then the Travelodge is the place for you. We couldn't face the thought of breakfast there and opted for Starbucks across the road. I was asked if I had enjoyed my stay and how I would rate the hotel - I told the receptionist it was a dump and the worst place I have ever stayed and gave her 0 out of 10 (bet that doesn't get recorded!!). A letter of complaint listing all the above will be winging it's way to head office when we get home with a demand for our money back.

And breathe ...... :)

After breakfast and a stop at Cotswold Outdoor to replace the map holder which disintegrated yesterday, we met up with Sue and headed off. A shorter (8 mile) walk today and it was dry and sunny so there was no relentless plodding along in the rain like yesterday. Today's stretch included a few miles alongside Hampton Court Park and Bushy Park. We stopped for coffee at Hampton Court Bridge - couldn't help noticing the sign saying 147 miles to the source! Hmmmm ;) We noticed swifts were around today. We also saw some kestrel-like birds of prey swooping low over the river. We couldn't identify them so will check the RSPB website next time we have wifi available. Lots of houseboats and rather grand riverside properties to admire today and we saw a number of boats pottering up and down. Lunch at Sunbury Lock and a chance to watch the world (and boats) go by before the final two miles into Walton. Tonight's B&B is almost 2 miles from the river - given the fact we've covered 44 miles in the last four days we figured we deserved a quick taxi ride to save our legs :)

Tue 15th May - Putney to Kingston-on-Thames

We thought today (Putney to Kingston-on-Thames) would be a long slog - we weren't wrong. 13.5 miles according to the guide book but it turned out to be nearer 15 miles. The weather wasn't good either - rain from the start, a dry interlude then more rain later. The first part of the walk was along the boat race course where there are concrete posts marked UBR at the start and finish. Lots of birds around today including herons and green parakeets. We passed Syon House but it was covered in scaffolding so there was no point taking any photos. We stopped for lunch in Richmond - apparently the Queen was in town too! With immaculate timing, we entered the Ship Inn a few minutes before a torrential downpour and a hailstorm - it was dry again by the time we left. One point of note .. Teddington Lock which we reached a bit later in the afternoon(just before Kingston) marks the upper limit of the tidal part of the Thames. We met some more Thames Path walkers coming in the opposite direction - they mentioned flooded paths further upstream beyond Oxford. We just hope the waters have subsided by the time we get there!

Mon 14th May - St Pauls to Putney

In contrast to yesterday (when I managed to get sunburnt on my arms) today was wet. Drizzle to begin with .. rain to follow .. then drizzle again later before it eventually turned dry .... just as we arrived at our hotel! My feet were sore today (mainly the little toe on my right foot) so I was glad of the toe protectors to save it from any more bruising. Early on we met three ladies coming the other way. They had just spent two weeks walking from the source. They showed us some video they had taken of the Thames Path flooded and where they had to wade knee deep through water. They thought it would have probably drained away by the time we reach there! Not so many diversions today but an awful lot of riverside developments which took you away from the river from time to time. It was noticeably quieter once we had got past the South Bank and the London Eye. Vauxhall and the MI6 headquarters was quite foreboding. Battersea Park with its peace and quiet was a revelation. We stopped for a coffee in Battersea - I thought of saying it was raining cats and dogs at the time but thought better of it :) As we found a table a familiar looking lady walked over and gave Sue £10 towards the sponsorship money. It was Charlie Dimmock (from Ground Force). In case you were wondering, Alan Titchmarsh was nowhere to be seen. Tomorrow is our longest day - we have 13miles to cover to Kingston-on-Thames. I do hope my feet (and especially my little toe) are okay by the end of it. Unfortunately it looks like it is going to rain again :( With today's walk that's 22miles done - but still a lot of miles to cover. After tomorrows long slog we have some easier 8 or 9 mile days to look forward to. Less walking and more 'feet up' time!

Sun 13th May - Thames Barrier to St Pauls

A beautiful sunny day. We caught the 177 bus from near the hotel to the Thames Barrier. Sue, our walking companion was already there waiting for us. Sue's daughter Tamzin walked with us on this first day - we met up with Sue's son Lawrence later on who was walking from the opposite direction until we met up. On the negative side, this first stage was frustrating as there were lots of temporary diversions which meant you were taken away from the riverside around various building sites. On the plus side we passed sights like the Cutty Sark. We found out very quickly you have to keep your eyes peeled for the Thames Path direction signs - they pop up all over the place but are cunningly positioned sometimes so you can easily miss them.  We went wrong more than once! We seemed to spend most of the day seeing two sights in particular. One was Canary Wharf which seemed to be a constant companion. The other was The Shard - a new building which is the tallest in London and never seemed to be out of sight wherever you were. One other point to note. Walking in London using walking poles gets you some strange looks - from the comments we got, some people don't seem to have come across walking poles before! So .. 12 miles done and an awful lot left!

Sat 12th May

I spent ages checking and re-checking my stuff for the walk. Finally decided I had everything I needed. The rucksack seemed very heavy - but I couldn't think of anything to leave behind. The train journey to London gave us several views of the River Thames .. Funny to think over the next few weeks we would be walking along those river banks. Across London by tube .. Luckily it wasn't too busy. So plenty of room for two travellers with large rucksacks! It was a sunny evening - we hoped it would stay that way for the next few days. Had a text message from Alan to say he and Diana were hoping to travel out and meet us one weekend - it looks like that will be when we reach Oxford.

Just the walking bit to do now ..

Well .. here we are. After weeks of planning the day has finally arrived when we find out if a couple of veterans can successfully conquer a long distance path. The rucksack is all packed and a bit later on we'll be heading off to Greenwich in London. Tomorrow morning we'll jump on a bus to the Thames Barrier, where we will no doubt take the obligatory "here we are at the start" photo and then we'll be off along the Thames Path. Just 9 miles tomorrow .. but then there'll be another 10 miles the day after and so things will continue ... all being well, the feet and legs will cope with the daily walking and in around three weeks time we will be marching across the fields near Kemble and celebrating a successful l-o-n-g walk.

Wet April .. Wet May?

The source of the Thames is not far away from here. And at this time of year it is normally dry on the approaches to the source. You would usually find yourself having to imagine that the shallow depression in the ground could be a river in its infancy. However, with the recent rain we have had, the fields have taken on a completely different look. Here is a view of the river less than a mile from the source  ..

and across the road there is even more water ..

There's still plenty of room to skirt round this water so no need for wet boots. Let's hope it's all disappeared in a month's time when we are planning to be walking across this field on the final leg of our journey.

It might have been eight and a half miles in sunshine at the weekend .. but it was a very wet 5 miles in the rain on Monday evening. I don't mind running in the rain .. I quite enjoy it to be honest. And I could have got wet all over again last night. But the traffic on the way home put paid to that. The nearest I got to my club run was driving past my clubmates pounding along the pavements near my home.

Thinking about the forthcoming Thames Path walk I'm trying to make sure I've covered all the angles. We'll obviously print out all the details we'll need. But what (I wondered) would we do if the papers blew away or got too soggy to read? So over the last day or so I've been entering the details into Outlook and it has copied them over to the phone. I've also programmed the accomodation details into the phone's mapping software and stored copies of the Word documents with the relevant names/addresses/phone numbers/booking references. Hopefully that means I'll have all the info I need readily available - and if I lose the phone let's hope I've still got the paperwork handy! :)

The small matter of putting together a list of what to take .. and how it will all fit into the rucksack remains.

Starting out

How do most people's blogs start out? Something like this I expect with a few tentative sentences while they metaphorically find their feet ..

Speaking of which, mine are slightly tired tonight. I had a lovely run in the park earlier this morning with my friend Caroline. I ran to the park gates where we had agreed to meet up and we ran 5 miles in the sunshine before parting company in town. I ran home again and checked the stats .. a total of 8.5miles in around 90 minutes. No wonder my feet (and legs) are a little tired - I normally only do 5-6miles.