No wifi again so another quick update by email. 18.5 miles done today from Reeth to Bolton-on-Swale (further than planned because of footpath diversion due to road works on A1). More rain today .. not what forecast said. Walking a bit easier today as it was across rolling farmland but feet are still sore and legs ache from non-stop walking.
** I have WiFi this evening so can update last night's blog with what I wrote last night **
Mon 14th - Reeth to Bolton on Swale
18.5mls, 8.5hrs
A longer day than planned because of detour around a closed footpath due to roadworks on the A1. Feet very sore by the end of the day.
Good walking at the start as we carried on down the Swale. The pace at the front was too fast for me and I was soon left behind yet again. I hadn't slept well and wasn't that impressed with my room in Reeth. So I was grumpy about walking by myself, getting left behind and tired before the day started.
I lost count of the number of wicket gates, squeeze stiles and gates we had to negotiate. We crossed and re-crossed the river and made our way through field after field. One highlight was Applegarth where we walked below a limestone cliff.
We reached Richmond at lunch time and had a break of over an hour. I spent most of it sitting on a park bench resting my feet and legs. I made a quick visit to the nearby Co-op to buy some lucozade. Drinking it gave me a bit of a boost and after lunch I was able to keep up better.
We made our way out of Richmond and had to follow a long detour because of roadworks. This involved crossing busy A roads several times where the traffic was very fast moving. It was very dangerous and only the kindness of some drivers who slowed to let us cross meant that we weren't stuck there for longer than we were. Bolton on Swale was eventually reached but by then everybody was on autopilot.
A bus was laid on to bring us back to Richmond and the accomodation was slightly strange. A lockable door from the entrance hall took you into a small corridor with rooms on either side. I am in one room, with Jill and Judy sharing the other - and up a couple of steps is a shared bathroom.
Jill had not been feeling well so when we arrived she laid down for a sleep. She was still in bed at 7pm when we had agreed to go out and eat. So Judy and myself along with Eve and Rachelle who are also in the same b&b headed into town. Because we were all tired we made a beeline for the nearest pub called the Ship Inn. It didnt look that appealing from the outside and when we went inside we saw why. A dark, dingy room with a bar down one side. We asked if they did food .. And weren't surprised when they said no, just drinks. To be honest we were all a bit relieved.
We did find a nice alternative as there was an Italian restaurant nearby and so the four of us toasted each other with Peroni for another day completed and everyone still going (despite the ever-increasing amounts of blister plasters!)
Monday, 14 July 2014
C2C Day 8
No wifi again so having to email short update. We reached Reeth today; 110 miles completed; another 84 to go and the whole group of 12 of us is still going strong. A bit of rain first thing this morning but sunny and dry the rest of the day. Forecast is supposed to be good for these last five days. Bolton-On-Swale tomorrow (17ml) then Ingleby Cross (17ml), Blakey Ridge (20ml), Grosmont (15ml) and Robin Hoods Bay (15ml) on Friday.
Saturday, 12 July 2014
Day 7 - Kirkby Stephen to Keld
Sat 12th - Kirkby Stephen to Keld
13 miles, 7 hrs
An easier day today but there was a long steep hill right from the start. I was struggling from the off and playing at being tail end Charlie. The rest waited for me about two-thirds of the way up but set off again as soon as I arrived! I got to the top not soon after the rest. At the top was Nine Standards Riggs, a collection of nine cairns, which was our lunch stop.
After lunch we made our way down towards Keld. The terrain was peat bogs but we were lucky that it has been dry lately (we have not seen any rain since walking through Ennerdale Forest on day two). So instead of boot sucking peat bog we had spongy grass with occasional squelchy bits.
On the way we passed Ravenseat Farm which is home of Amanda Owen and her husband. They do cream teas but she is better known as the author of "A Yorkshire Shepherdess". There was a chap sitting on the wall opposite who does metal detecting. I only found out after we had left that a few years ago he found a Roman helmet which sold at auction for £2 million.
The rest of the journey was uneventful ..just a gradual descent to Keld where we are staying tonight.
Cause for celebration tonight because we have reached the halfway point. And at Nine Standards we crossed over into Yorkshire. Tomorrow an easier 11 mile day down Swaledale before the mileages start increasing again.
13 miles, 7 hrs
An easier day today but there was a long steep hill right from the start. I was struggling from the off and playing at being tail end Charlie. The rest waited for me about two-thirds of the way up but set off again as soon as I arrived! I got to the top not soon after the rest. At the top was Nine Standards Riggs, a collection of nine cairns, which was our lunch stop.
After lunch we made our way down towards Keld. The terrain was peat bogs but we were lucky that it has been dry lately (we have not seen any rain since walking through Ennerdale Forest on day two). So instead of boot sucking peat bog we had spongy grass with occasional squelchy bits.
On the way we passed Ravenseat Farm which is home of Amanda Owen and her husband. They do cream teas but she is better known as the author of "A Yorkshire Shepherdess". There was a chap sitting on the wall opposite who does metal detecting. I only found out after we had left that a few years ago he found a Roman helmet which sold at auction for £2 million.
The rest of the journey was uneventful ..just a gradual descent to Keld where we are staying tonight.
Cause for celebration tonight because we have reached the halfway point. And at Nine Standards we crossed over into Yorkshire. Tomorrow an easier 11 mile day down Swaledale before the mileages start increasing again.
Friday, 11 July 2014
Day 6 - Shap to Kirkby Stephen
Another day on the coast to coast walk .. another 20 miles completed. We arrived in Kirkby Stephen this evening and the total mileage now stands at 84 miles.
Today was a real contrast to the first five days. Having left behind Lakeland and entered limestone country we were walking on heather moorland. The hills were less steep and covered in grass rather than rocks. On the way we saw stone circles, old Roman roads and dotted amongst the limestone, granite boulders left behind after the last ice age.
Today was a real contrast to the first five days. Having left behind Lakeland and entered limestone country we were walking on heather moorland. The hills were less steep and covered in grass rather than rocks. On the way we saw stone circles, old Roman roads and dotted amongst the limestone, granite boulders left behind after the last ice age.
Thursday, 10 July 2014
C2C Day 5
We have arrived in Shap after a long day when we walked for ten hours, covered 17 miles and did over 2500ft of ascent. Total mileage now stands at 64.5 miles so we have covered about one third of the route.
Feet are still okay .. No blisters. But after today legs are very tired. Our leader Chris says now we have managed to complete today's leg we should find the next few days a bit easier.
Update - Sat 12th
I found day 5 very hard work - it was warm and sunny and energy sapping. So I didn't have the energy to write more than the above. During the course of the day we left behind the lake district and entered limestone country. I found myself wishing I was two stone lighter .. Getting up the hills was hard and holding myself back down the steep descents was equally hard. I did stumble at one point. My legs were so tired I couldn't stop myself and ended up on my backside. The high points of the day were the fabulous views of lakeland and an honesty box we came across after climbing a high stile. The box is run by a local schoolboy and a cold can of drink has never tasted so good.
Feet are still okay .. No blisters. But after today legs are very tired. Our leader Chris says now we have managed to complete today's leg we should find the next few days a bit easier.
Update - Sat 12th
I found day 5 very hard work - it was warm and sunny and energy sapping. So I didn't have the energy to write more than the above. During the course of the day we left behind the lake district and entered limestone country. I found myself wishing I was two stone lighter .. Getting up the hills was hard and holding myself back down the steep descents was equally hard. I did stumble at one point. My legs were so tired I couldn't stop myself and ended up on my backside. The high points of the day were the fabulous views of lakeland and an honesty box we came across after climbing a high stile. The box is run by a local schoolboy and a cold can of drink has never tasted so good.
Wednesday, 9 July 2014
Day 4 - Grasmere to Glennridding
Wed 9th - Grasmere to Glenridding
8.63ml, 6h 40m
I got bitten on the right shoulder by a horsefly yesterday and have a large lump just where my rucksack strap goes .. just what I need. I think I had the beginnings of a blister on my left foot after yesterday's walk so this morning I put on a Compeed to try and avoid any problems.
We needed to be walking by 9am so it was a quick turnaround after breakfast. I just made it after almost forgetting to pick up my packed lunch from reception! Another long slog, this time up Great Tongue to the top of Grisedale Hause then a small drop down to Grisedale Tarn (1800ft) where we stopped for lunch. After lunch we made our way down Grisedale into Patterdale.
I felt better today. The soreness in my quads has gone and I wasn't struggling or out of breath or sweating so much today. We took plenty of short breaks today and didn't try to rush the pace either uphill or downhill.
The group has really gelled well and there is a lot of support from the others if you are struggling for any reason. Ian was handing round jelly babies this afternoon and Jane had some humbugs she was sharing. Chris the leader has a portable stove with him and at Grisedale Tarn was making tea with his wife Sue. Sue also had the bright idea of soaking my small towel in the beck. The cold water made it really refreshing and I handed round the cold towel to everyone who wanted to use it.
We are now in Patterdale and I have stocked up on some jelly babies at the nearby shop as I seem to have been eating everyone else's! 47.5 miles done and Chris has already warned us tomorrow we are in for a long tough day as we are heading for Shap, 17 miles away over some big climbs (we will do 2500ft of ascent by the end of tomorrows walk). It looks like it may be raining by the afternoon so the plan is to set off at 08:15 to allow us to keep a steadier pace and hopefully, arrive in Shap before the rain does.
8.63ml, 6h 40m
I got bitten on the right shoulder by a horsefly yesterday and have a large lump just where my rucksack strap goes .. just what I need. I think I had the beginnings of a blister on my left foot after yesterday's walk so this morning I put on a Compeed to try and avoid any problems.
We needed to be walking by 9am so it was a quick turnaround after breakfast. I just made it after almost forgetting to pick up my packed lunch from reception! Another long slog, this time up Great Tongue to the top of Grisedale Hause then a small drop down to Grisedale Tarn (1800ft) where we stopped for lunch. After lunch we made our way down Grisedale into Patterdale.
I felt better today. The soreness in my quads has gone and I wasn't struggling or out of breath or sweating so much today. We took plenty of short breaks today and didn't try to rush the pace either uphill or downhill.
The group has really gelled well and there is a lot of support from the others if you are struggling for any reason. Ian was handing round jelly babies this afternoon and Jane had some humbugs she was sharing. Chris the leader has a portable stove with him and at Grisedale Tarn was making tea with his wife Sue. Sue also had the bright idea of soaking my small towel in the beck. The cold water made it really refreshing and I handed round the cold towel to everyone who wanted to use it.
We are now in Patterdale and I have stocked up on some jelly babies at the nearby shop as I seem to have been eating everyone else's! 47.5 miles done and Chris has already warned us tomorrow we are in for a long tough day as we are heading for Shap, 17 miles away over some big climbs (we will do 2500ft of ascent by the end of tomorrows walk). It looks like it may be raining by the afternoon so the plan is to set off at 08:15 to allow us to keep a steadier pace and hopefully, arrive in Shap before the rain does.
Tuesday, 8 July 2014
C2C - update on day 1 and days 2 and 3
I had to post the previous blog from my phone as I didn't have any WiFi. We haven't had any WiFi or even any mobile signal for the last couple of days which is why it has been quiet on here without any postings.
On day 1 we started by following the tradition of dipping our boots in the sea and picking up a pebble to carry to Robin Hoods Bay. Then we had a group photo taken before setting off.
The Queens Arms where we ate last night was very noisy. A World cup match was on and a stag party group we're there getting sloshed. Our walk leader Chris says he is always glad to leave St. Bees as it always noisy. I was in eaves of Stonehouse Farm last night. Two other rooms were in close proximity so there were lots of noises off and creaking floorboards. I was woken by something at 4:45am .. took a while to get back to sleep. Slightly disorganised that morning as a result and was the last person out.
As you would expect with popular route like C2C others at Stonehouse Farm were out starting the walk today. We saw some of them when out today and most of us met again at Shepherds Rest that evening. The Shepherds Rest where we were staying did lovely meals and table was reserved for all of us.
Day 2 - Mon 7th
Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite
14.9ml, 9h 00m
08:30am start but breakfast not until 07:30am so all a bit of a rush and I was last one in for breakfast so had to wait. Brought my case downstairs and picked up my packed lunch while I was waiting. Stuff I rinsed through yesterday evening dried overnight which was good.
Been taught fell runners knot by Suzanne and used that today and it stayed tied up without any problem. Set off at 08:45am and followed roads to Ennerdale Water then we had 3mls of rocky path along lake including short scramble. Crossed river at end then 5mls of forest track to Black Sail Hut where we had lunch break. Rocky path to Loft Beck then rocky, steep ascent beside beck to top. Views back down Ennerdale Water from top. Crossed fell towards Drum House with views of Haystacks, Innonimate Tarn, Buttermere and Crummock Water .. with views of Scotland in distance. Steep rocky descent to Honister Slate Mine where we had tea and cake. Another rocky path down to Stonethwaite and very steep slope down through ferns. Final part of journey past youth hostel and road to Gillercombe bed and breakfast.
Landlady Rachel is a 'character'. Six of us staying - me, Chris, Sue, Liz, Rachelle, Eve. But only one bath so we had to shower in shifts .. some had a shower while others had tea and vice versa. Original planned pub did not work out as it is closed on Mondays so had to walk to next nearest one. Very noisy as it was packed with walkers. We saw same people today we saw yesterday and passed each other quite a few times.
Feet we're sore after today but still no blisters. Main problem is quads are sore after rocky ascents and descents today. Was stumbling quite a bit towards end - think that was due to tired legs. Will stretch tonight and put some Voltarol on.
08:15am start tomorrow as we six have to walk down to Knott's House where others at staying for 08:30 start.
Day 3 - Tue 8th
Rosthwaite to Grasmere
9ml, 7h 15m
Today was very hard work for me. My quads were still sore from the first two days walking. It was raining so the waterproofs were on. After a short walk on road we started climbing. The route went up Greenup Gill and we climbed to 600m. I was at the back of the group and out of breath and sweating with the effort. I was having to take small steps to stop my quad getting any worse than they were. When we reached the top we traversed the flat area and had lunch. There was a choice of following the valley down into Grasmere or doing a ridge walk. The rest of the group voted for the ridge walk so I had to tag along. By the time we had negotiated the rocky paths up and down the three small peaks on the ridge my legs were really tired and I had run out of water. The final descent down a rocky path was a real test for me and by the time we reached the outskirts of Grasmere I was just trudging along.
However, once I had reached the hotel, showered and changed and had a cold beer in my hand I was feeling better. The Red Lion has a laundry so two of the group (Suzanne and Jane) let me know and we shared the cost between us to do a load of washing. We had a laugh when we got the stuff out of the tumble dryer and took the bag back to their room to sort out our stuff. When I picked up my trousers Jane's bra was tangled up with the mesh of one of the pockets! :-)
39 miles done and tomorrow we head for Glenridding. This is just 8miles with a steady climb up to Grisedale Tarn and a steady descent into Patterdale. We have been warned that day 5 when we head from Glenridding to Shap is one of the toughest of the whole route.
On day 1 we started by following the tradition of dipping our boots in the sea and picking up a pebble to carry to Robin Hoods Bay. Then we had a group photo taken before setting off.
The Queens Arms where we ate last night was very noisy. A World cup match was on and a stag party group we're there getting sloshed. Our walk leader Chris says he is always glad to leave St. Bees as it always noisy. I was in eaves of Stonehouse Farm last night. Two other rooms were in close proximity so there were lots of noises off and creaking floorboards. I was woken by something at 4:45am .. took a while to get back to sleep. Slightly disorganised that morning as a result and was the last person out.
As you would expect with popular route like C2C others at Stonehouse Farm were out starting the walk today. We saw some of them when out today and most of us met again at Shepherds Rest that evening. The Shepherds Rest where we were staying did lovely meals and table was reserved for all of us.
Day 2 - Mon 7th
Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite
14.9ml, 9h 00m
08:30am start but breakfast not until 07:30am so all a bit of a rush and I was last one in for breakfast so had to wait. Brought my case downstairs and picked up my packed lunch while I was waiting. Stuff I rinsed through yesterday evening dried overnight which was good.
Been taught fell runners knot by Suzanne and used that today and it stayed tied up without any problem. Set off at 08:45am and followed roads to Ennerdale Water then we had 3mls of rocky path along lake including short scramble. Crossed river at end then 5mls of forest track to Black Sail Hut where we had lunch break. Rocky path to Loft Beck then rocky, steep ascent beside beck to top. Views back down Ennerdale Water from top. Crossed fell towards Drum House with views of Haystacks, Innonimate Tarn, Buttermere and Crummock Water .. with views of Scotland in distance. Steep rocky descent to Honister Slate Mine where we had tea and cake. Another rocky path down to Stonethwaite and very steep slope down through ferns. Final part of journey past youth hostel and road to Gillercombe bed and breakfast.
Landlady Rachel is a 'character'. Six of us staying - me, Chris, Sue, Liz, Rachelle, Eve. But only one bath so we had to shower in shifts .. some had a shower while others had tea and vice versa. Original planned pub did not work out as it is closed on Mondays so had to walk to next nearest one. Very noisy as it was packed with walkers. We saw same people today we saw yesterday and passed each other quite a few times.
Feet we're sore after today but still no blisters. Main problem is quads are sore after rocky ascents and descents today. Was stumbling quite a bit towards end - think that was due to tired legs. Will stretch tonight and put some Voltarol on.
08:15am start tomorrow as we six have to walk down to Knott's House where others at staying for 08:30 start.
Day 3 - Tue 8th
Rosthwaite to Grasmere
9ml, 7h 15m
Today was very hard work for me. My quads were still sore from the first two days walking. It was raining so the waterproofs were on. After a short walk on road we started climbing. The route went up Greenup Gill and we climbed to 600m. I was at the back of the group and out of breath and sweating with the effort. I was having to take small steps to stop my quad getting any worse than they were. When we reached the top we traversed the flat area and had lunch. There was a choice of following the valley down into Grasmere or doing a ridge walk. The rest of the group voted for the ridge walk so I had to tag along. By the time we had negotiated the rocky paths up and down the three small peaks on the ridge my legs were really tired and I had run out of water. The final descent down a rocky path was a real test for me and by the time we reached the outskirts of Grasmere I was just trudging along.
However, once I had reached the hotel, showered and changed and had a cold beer in my hand I was feeling better. The Red Lion has a laundry so two of the group (Suzanne and Jane) let me know and we shared the cost between us to do a load of washing. We had a laugh when we got the stuff out of the tumble dryer and took the bag back to their room to sort out our stuff. When I picked up my trousers Jane's bra was tangled up with the mesh of one of the pockets! :-)
39 miles done and tomorrow we head for Glenridding. This is just 8miles with a steady climb up to Grisedale Tarn and a steady descent into Patterdale. We have been warned that day 5 when we head from Glenridding to Shap is one of the toughest of the whole route.
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